We just couldn’t bring ourselves to rise and shine liked we’d hoped due to the dreary weather, so alas, there was no time for a final visit to our favorite coffee spot en route to the train from Oslo to start the “Norway in a Nutshell” portion of our trip.
Fortunately enough, Norwegian trains are AMAZING, and coffee and fresh baked cinnamon rolls were only two cars away on the train. The Nutshell is a famous transit route that spans from Oslo (inland from the coast to the east) to Bergen (by the sea, on the west coast of Norway) and winds through the most famous countryside and fjords of Norway. We try our best not to be lulled into naps from the rhythmic sounds of the tracks, but eventually we succumb for a few winks. The first leg of the trip took us from Oslo to Myrdal station, about a 4 hours journey. We cruise through the countryside and see farms, homes, and cities of every size.
Then, a few stations before Myrdal, we shake off the temptation of sleep and get to witness the change from lush, green fields to towering pine forests and then finally to arctic tundra (literally, more snow that we ever expected!).
Pro tip for those of you considering the same journey: sit on the left side for better views!
Additionally, there is one stop on the train where the train lets those who dare off for ~5 minutes to walk straight into the splash and spray of the largest waterfall along the route!
We got drenched, but the photo was worth it!
At the stop in Myrdal, we have about an hour to pass, so we hunker down in the station cafe, enjoy our handy bag of bread, meats, and cheese, and wash down the meal with a local beer brewed fresh from our next destination: Flåm!
On the ride to Flåm, another train line, we snag seats next to a nice South African couple who gush about their country (rightly so, we believe!) and enjoy a ride filled with gorgeous waterfalls, sheer cliffs, and tunnels dug by hand (1 meter of tunnel reportedly took 1 month of work!). The track is steep, too, with an average grade/decline of 55%!
Upon arrival in Flåm we hike to our hotel (backpacking FTW!) and get tips on a hike up to one of the big falls nearby. Since the sun doesn’t set until 11, we decided to go for it. (After stopping to consider getting Grant a traditional Norse wool sweater – they look crazy warm, but are yarn expensive!)
Our view of the town as we hiked to our hotel. Apparently they get cruise ships that size daily…
Grant didn’t find a sweater, but he did find Hawai’i!
The hike is quite scenic, and on the we past a herd of shaggy haired… cows. They’re clearly well groomed, though most of them have opted for the “emo” look and have hair over one eye, while others just went for the “sheep dog” look, and have both eyes hidden by their gorgeous locks 🙂
Finally, we find the actual trail and head up a steep ascent, and almost step on a few sheep sitting on the trail about halfway up!
Having perfected cow-whispering, Jess tries her hand at a different barn-yard beastie
At the top, we turned a corner and immediately get hit by the wind and spray from the waterfall. Wo of course stand in the spray for a few too many photos…and get completely drenched (worth it!).
As the sun finally starts to dip, we descend as fast as possible and head to the local brewery / brew pub, Ægir Brewing for well earned tasting flights. The beer is tasty on all fronts, and we learn the impressive fact that their beer is internationally distributed, despite coming from Flåm, which has a population of roughly ~400.
From there it’s back to the hotel for a tasty Norwegian dinner, and of course, early to bed as we have another early a.m. planned!
-G & J